Noshaq

Noshaq
Noshak, Nowshakh
Highest point
Elevation7,492 m (24,580 ft)
Ranked 52nd
Prominence2,024 m (6,640 ft)
ListingCountry high point
Ultra
Coordinates36°25′54″N 71°49′42″E / 36.43167°N 71.82833°E / 36.43167; 71.82833
Naming
Native nameنوشاخ (Dari)
Geography
Noshaq is located in Afghanistan
Noshaq
Noshaq
Location within Afghanistan
Noshaq is located in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
Noshaq
Noshaq
Location within Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
Noshaq is located in Pakistan
Noshaq
Noshaq
Location within Pakistan
Countries
Afghanistan and Pakistan
Province
Parent rangeHindu Kush
Climbing
First ascent17 August 1960 by Toshiaki Sakai and Goro Iwatsubo (Japan)
Easiest routeglacier/snow climb

Noshaq is a 7,492 m (24,580 ft) high peak in the Hindu Kush lying on the border of Afghanistan and Pakistan. It is the highest mountain in Afghanistan, the second highest in the Hindu Kush after Terich Mir, and the 52nd highest in the world. It is also the westernmost 7,000 m (22,966 ft) peak in the world.

The south and eastern sides of the mountain are in Pakistan whereas the north and west sides are in Afghanistan. The easiest access to Noshaq is from the village of Qazideh in the Wakhan District of Badakhshan Province, Afghanistan. Foreigners are required to have an Afghan visa, including a special permission letter from Afghanistan's Ministry of Information and Culture.

Climbing history

Noshaq main was first climbed by a Japanese expedition on 17 August 1960, led by Professor Yajiro Sakato. Other members of the expedition were Goro Iwatsubo and Toshiaki Sakai. The climb followed the normal Afghanistan approach, the West ridge from the Qazideh Glacier.

Noshaq East, Noshaq Central and Noshaq West were first climbed in 1963 by Austrians Dr. Gerald Gruber and Rudolf Pischenger.

The Tiroler Hindukusch-Ski-Expedition of Akademischer Alpenklub Innsbruck (Austria) made the first ski descent from the summit of Noshaq in 1970. The famous meteorologist Karl Gabl was a member of the team.

The first winter ascent was 13 February 1973 by Tadeusz Piotrowski and Andrzej Zawada, members of a Polish expedition, via the north face. It was the first winter climb of any 7000 m peak and is the only winter ascent of this mountain.

From the 1978 Saur Revolution and the decades of wars that followed, the mountain was very difficult to access because of political turmoil in the region. In 2011, National Geographic noted that the trail to the summit was again accessible to climbers, with hopes of opening the area up for tourism.

See also

References

  1. ↑ Sakato, Yajiro (1960). "Ascent of Noshaq". Himalayan Journal. 22. Retrieved 2023-09-08.
  2. ↑ Sakato, Yajiro (1961). "Japanese Himalayan Expeditions: ASCENT OF NOSHAQ". American Alpine Journal. 12 (2). American Alpine Club: 275. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
  3. ↑ "Noshaq". American Alpine Journal. 14 (1). American Alpine Club: 234. 1964. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
  4. ↑ "Noshaq Ski Expedition". American Alpine Journal. 17 (2). American Alpine Club: 457. 1971. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
  5. ↑ Schwabe, Ulrich (1972). "Noshaq on skis" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
  6. ↑ "Noshaq, First Winter Ascent". American Alpine Journal. 19 (1). American Alpine Club: 217. 1974. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
  7. ↑ "Grant winners summit highest Afghanistan peak". Australian Geographic. 11 August 2011. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
  8. ↑ "Afghanistan's Highest Mountain Reopened to Climbers". National Geographic. 10 August 2011. Retrieved 2025-06-22.
  9. ↑ "Afghan Noshaq expedition". Archived from the original on 2013-06-15. Retrieved 2020-04-21.