
Kurt Diemberger (born 16 March 1932) is an Austrian mountaineer and author. He is the only living person who has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres: of Broad Peak in 1957 and of Dhaulagiri in 1960. He was born in Villach. He suffered from frostbite during the descent of Karakoram and had to have amputations.