Geoff Weigand

Geoff Weigand
Portrait Geoff Weigand, 2001
Personal information
Born1964 (age 61–62)
Sydney, Australia
OccupationsRock climber and climbing coach
Climbing career
Highest grade

Geoff Weigand (born 1964 in Sydney, Australia) is an Australian rock climber and road cyclist.

Climbing career

In 1981, at the age of 16, he came to prominence as one of the leading rock climbers in Australia with the onsight ascent of Toyland, 25, considered by most to be the hardest climb in New South Wales (NSW) at the time. Weigand added numerous first free ascents in Australia. Some are at Bombo Quarry, NSW, he redpointed Hangman (27)., Krondorf Theft (25), and Abstractions (25). At Cosmic County, with Aesthetic Images (25), Crosswords (24), Highlights (24), Fading Light (24), Blackboard (24) and Letters to the Editor (25) - all developed in December 1981. He also repeated the best and hardest of his contemporaries' routes (at the time) including ascent of Hollow Men (26). While at Mt. Piddington, he established the first of its difficulty, Social Climbing (26) He also free solo climbed The Janicepts (22) at Mt. Victoria, and Exhibition Wall (21) at Mt. York. He was the subject of a "60 Minutes" (Australia) climbing story on free soloing filmed at Cosmic County and Blue Mountains. In this story the anchorman posits "Is this Sport or Madness?" Weigand is quoted as saying "It's both and neither. It's madness to the everyday person. I'm not the everyday person." At Mt. Arapiles in Australia he redpointed No Exit (26) while still in high school. In February 1986 he made the first free ascent of Shimmering, the first route at the grade 28 in New South Wales.

In Joshua Tree, he free soloed, and onsight, each of the Ski Tracks (5.10/5.11) then the crack climbing route, Acid Crack 5.13a (7c+). In Yosemite Valley, with fellow Aussie Kim Carrigan, they did the first continuous—no falls—free ascent of Rostrum 5.12 (7b/+). At the Cookie Cliffs, they climbed Americas Cup 5.12c (7b+), so named to commemorate the winning of the yacht race series by Australia over the U.S.A. for the first time.

At Smith Rock, in Oregon, he arrived in early summer '85 with Johnny Woodward and Kim Carrigan with the local core of Alan Watts, Chris Grover, and Brooke Sandhal. He made the first 1-day ascent of Chain Reaction 5.12c (7b+), and Latest Rage 5.12 (7b/+). He and Woodward also teamed up for the 2nd ascent of the classic Heinous Cling 5.12c (7b+), and a no falls ascent of Split images 5.12d (7c). Weigand did the 1st repeat of Darkness at Noon 5.13a (7c+)—all were routes developed by Alan Watts and it supported his development of Smith Rocks as the leading American sport climbing area.

Weigand was profiled in Rock magazine's Jan-Jun 1989 issue noted as "currently at the top of the Australian rockclimbing hit parade" (Chris Baxter, Managing Editor)

He participated in the 1992 Masters competition in Chambery, France as an early competition climbing event held one-week prior to the Olympic games in France's bid to get rock climbing entered as an Olympic sport for the 1998 Seoul, Korean summer games. He placed 19th in the lead climbing event and 5th in the speed climbing event.

In 1992, at the China Wall in Logan Canyon, UT he made the first free ascnet of the sport-climbing route, Blackout 8b+ (5.14a), an ascent that Boone Speed called: "The grade of the route is irrelevant, insignificant compared to the pure intensity of the performance. What matters is that Geoff punched it past his personal limits, and, in the process, inspired us to do the same. I wish everyone luck in the search for their own 'Black Out'."

Notable ascents

First free ascents

First ascents done as free solo and onsight

First ascents done as free solo ascents

Multi-pitch climbing first ascents

Other ascents

Competition climbing events

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Gockley, Catherine (1989). "Rock Profile: Geoff Weigand, The enfant terrible of Oz rock". Rock (Jan–June): 14–15.
  2. ↑ Morgan, Lisa (1994). "The world according to Geoff Weigand". Climbing (1 November - 15 December): 140.
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Wagner, Tim (1993). "Resident Alien, a conversation with Geoff Weigand". Rock & Ice (58): 38.
  4. 1 2 3 4 5 Carrigan, Kim (1986). "Extreme Rock". Rock: 14.
  5. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Pircher, Martin (2002). Blue Mountains Climbing. Onsight Photography. pp. 146, 201, 261, 262, 265, 267, 269, 270, 272. ISBN 0958079013.
  6. 1 2 3 Carrigan, Kim (1982). "Out there, down there: 50ft roof free climbed". Mountain (85): 18.
  7. 1 2 "America's Cup". The Crag.
  8. ↑ Reid, Don (1998). Rock climbing Yosemite free climbs (2nd ed.). Helena, Mont.: Falcon. p. 351. ISBN 0934641595.
  9. ↑ Reid, Don. "North America, United States, California–Yosemite, Yosemite Valley, 1985 - AAC Publications - Search The American Alpine Journal and Accidents In North American Climbing". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 7 November 2016.
  10. ↑ Watts, Alan (1992). Climber's Guide to Smith Rock. Evergreen, Colo.: Chockstone Press. p. 20. ISBN 0934641188.
  11. ↑ Hobley, Nicholas (2009). "Alan Watts climbing interview". Planetmountain.com. Archived from the original on 22 September 2016. Retrieved 3 October 2016.
  12. ↑ Gaillard, Christophe. "Going for the Gold (Chambery, FRA)". Sport of Today.
  13. 1 2 Schneid, Tim. "Climbing in the 98 winter games? Going for the Gold". Sport of Today.
  14. ↑ "Masters Chambery 1992". Digital Rock.
  15. 1 2 Speed, Boone (1992). "Black Out". Climbing Magazine (133): 50.
  16. ↑ "Security Jerks (27)". The Crag. Retrieved 28 September 2016.
  17. 1 2 "Geoff Weigand". Australian Rockclimber (4): cover, 16. March 1989.
  18. ↑ "Table of Contents Photo". Rock (Jan–Jun): 1. 1989.
  19. ↑ "Jet Lag (29)". The Crag.
  20. ↑ "Straight Outta Compton (30)". The Crag.
  21. ↑ Benge, Michael. "Hot Flashes". Climbing: 36.
  22. ↑ "Hurrikan (9+)". frankenjura.com.
  23. 1 2 3 "Rock News: Mt Stapylton, Mega-routes fall like plums". Rock (Jul–Dec): 5. 1989.
  24. ↑ Cummins, Clint. "Smith Rock Guide". Stanford.edu, Smith Rock Guide, rev 11/1/89.[permanent dead link]
  25. ↑ Ruckman, Stuart (1995). Climbers Guide to American Fork/Rock Canyon. Chockstone Press. ISBN 0934641889.
  26. 1 2 3 "Rock News: Geoff Weigand". Rock (Jan–Jun): 5. 1989.
  27. ↑ "Stop the Press". Rock (Jan–Jun): 15. 1989.
  28. ↑ "Short and Sharp (25x)". The Crag.
  29. ↑ "Herbs and Spices (23)". The Crag. Retrieved 28 September 2016.
  30. ↑ Carter, H. Adams (1989). American alpine journal, 1989. [S.l.]: Amer Alpine Club. p. 126. ISBN 0930410394.
  31. 1 2 Hiller, Susan (1991). "Hueco Tanks Rock Rodeo". The Connection. 3 (June, July, August): 50, 51.
  32. ↑ Ralf Becker. "Result: MEN lead". digitalrock.de. Retrieved 7 November 2016.