 | This article needs more citations. (March 2016) |
A Kani shawl is a type of Kashmir shawl originating from the Kanihama area of the Kashmir Valley. It is one of the oldest handicrafts of Kashmir. This craft has been a part of the valley since the time of Mughals. The shawls are woven from pashmina yarn. The government of Jammu and Kashmir has granted a geographical indication to the Kani shawl, making it illegal to sell shawls made outside of the Kanihama area as Kani shawls.
Kani weaving is believed to be an art indigenous to Kanihama and traced back to 3000 BC. This exquisite shawl was once coveted by Mughal Kings, Sikh Maharajas and British Aristocrats. The Ain-i-Akbari records that Emperor Akbar was an avid collector of Kani shawls.
While the name 'Kani' comes from the area where these particular artisans come from, Kanihama, the word 'Kani' - in Kashmiri - also means a small wooden oblong spool.
Kani Shawls are made from pashmina on a handloom. Instead of a shuttle used in regular pashmina shawls, Kani Shawls use needles made from cane or wood. The kanis, or small wooden sticks, are used to create the intricate designs of the shawl. Each kani represents one knot in the weave, and the weaver must follow a graph paper design closely to ensure that the design is accurately replicated.
he weaving of Kani shawls requires specialized knowledgeable and training traditionally passed down through generations of artisans. It has been estimated that of the 10,000-odd kani weavers, only 2,000 remain today. Kani weaving shares certain techniques with carpet weaving particularly the use of colour-coded system known as "Talim,", which provides instructions for placement of colours during the weaving process. Although the two crafts differ in their techniques, tools, and production methods, both rely on Talim to guide the artisan. Kani shawl weaving is a specialized craft involving techniques and design conventions specific to the product of Kani textiles.