Latok group

Latok group
لیٹوک
Latok Peaks and the Ogres thumb
Highest point
Elevation7,145 m (23,442 ft)
Prominence1,475 m (4,839 ft)
Coordinates35°55′41″N 75°49′21″E / 35.9280°N 75.8225°E / 35.9280; 75.8225
Geography
Latok is located in Karakoram
Latok
Latok
Location within Karakoram
Latok is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Latok
Latok
Location within Gilgit Baltistan
LocationGilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangePanmah Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascentJuly 19, 1979 by Sin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro [ja], Yu Watanabe
Easiest routeEast Ridge from south side

The Latok group is a cluster of large and dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side flows the Choktoi Glacier.

The Latok range may be best known for Latok I's north ridge wall, which remains unclimbed in its entirety, despite many attempts. The Latok Tuber Belay Device, a piece of climbing equipment popularized by Jeff Lowe, takes its name from the mountain range.

Latok group

The Latok group comprises four main summits, each listed here with its relative position in the group, elevation, and first ascent date:

The Latok group includes several minor peaks, some of which are named for their elevation.

Climbing history

All of Latok's summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty, and they have been the scene of some of the hardest climbing at high altitude anywhere in the world. Of the peaks, Latok II has been summited most frequently.

Latok I

Latok II
Highest point
Elevation7,108 m (23,320 ft)
Coordinates35°55′12″N 75°48′09″E / 35.9200°N 75.8025°E / 35.9200; 75.8025
Geography
LocationNorthern Areas, Pakistan
Parent rangePanmah Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent1977 by Ezio Alimonta, Toni Masé, Renato Valentini
Easiest routeSoutheast Buttress

Latok II

Latok III
Highest point
Elevation6,949 m (22,799 ft)
Coordinates35°55′13″N 75°50′23″E / 35.9204°N 75.8396°E / 35.9204; 75.8396
Geography
LocationNorthern Areas, Pakistan
Parent rangePanmah Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascentJuly 15, 1979 by Yoji Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, Sakae Mori
Easiest routeSouthwest Ridge

Latok III

Latok IV
Highest point
Elevation6,456 m (21,181 ft)
Coordinates35°53′42″N 75°51′45″E / 35.89503°N 75.86248°E / 35.89503; 75.86248
Geography
Parent rangePanmah Muztagh
Climbing
First ascent18 July 1980 Koji Okano and Motomu Omiya
Easiest routeSouth Summit, 6450m

Latok IV

Latok V

Biacherahi Towers

The Biacherahi Towers are a group of three granite towers rising from the Choktoi Glacier opposite and to the north-west of the Latok range. Their altitudes range from 5700-5900m.

Climbing casualties

Notes and references

  1. ↑ Urdu: لیٹوک
  1. 1 2 3 4 5 Heights in this article are taken from the map Karakoram, 1:250,000, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. A survey under the leadership of Professor Arturo Bergamaschi gives the heights as follows:
    • Latok I: 7,086 m
    • Latok II: 7,151 m
    • Latok III: 6,860 m
    Bergamaschi proposed that the designations of Latok I and Latok II be switched; however, most sources continue to refer to the central peak as Latok I and the western peak as Latok II, as does this article. See the American Alpine Journal, 1998, pp. 320-321. If Professor Bergamaschi's results are correct, then Latok II is the highest of the group, and would have a prominence of approximately 1,481 m; the prominence of Latok I would be greatly reduced.
  2. 1 2 3 "Latok I, First Ascent". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club: 647–648. 1980.
  3. ↑ Beckwith, Christian (2006-09-18). "LATOK I's NORTH RIDGE WINS AGAIN". Alpinist. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  4. ↑ "Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  5. ↑ Douglas, Ed (2018-08-19). "Mountain high: the world's last great challenges". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  6. ↑ "Latok I Climbed From the North, but North Ridge Remains Incomplete". Climbing. 2018-08-14. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  7. ↑ "Latok Tuber Belay Device". Scottish Mountain Heritage Collection. Retrieved July 23, 2024.
  8. ↑ "Americans Climb Latok II and V". Climbing. 2006-09-18. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  9. ↑ "Karakoram, Panmah Mustagh, Latok V, First Ascent; Latok II, South Ridge, First Alpine-Style Ascent". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 2007. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  10. ↑ Frimer, Jeremy (2007-09-10). "CANADIANS SEND UNEXPECTED SUMMIT IN THE LATOK GROUP". Alpinist. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  11. ↑ "Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Peak 5,750m, the Outside Penguin; Latok II Attempts". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 2008. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  12. ↑ "Nanga Parbat Range, Panmah Muztagh, Peak 5750m, Ascent, Peak 5990m, Possible First Ascent and Baintha Brakk, Attempt". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 2001. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  13. ↑ "Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Peak 5,200m, the Partition, to Subsummit". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 2008. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  14. ↑ "Latok II Southeast top (ca 7,020m), southwest face, Théorème de la Peine". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 2013. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  15. ↑ "Latok I Climbed from the North, but North Ridge Remains Incomplete". 14 August 2018.
  16. ↑ "The HJ/36/35 EXPEDITIONS 1976-1979". The HJ/36/35 EXPEDITIONS 1976-1979. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  17. ↑ Annapurna, Kris (2024-07-20). "A Short Climbing History of Latok I » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  18. ↑ Routen, Ash (2018-08-21). "British mountaineer in 'climb of generation' watched Russian attempt end in tragedy before him". The Telegraph. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 2018-08-21.
  19. ↑ "ARTICLE: Seven Lonely Days - The Rescue of Alexander Gukov". www.ukclimbing.com. 2019-07-31. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  20. ↑ "Latok I: The North Ridge". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 2019. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  21. ↑ "Pak Army rescued a Russian Climber from Latok on 31 July, 2018". The Express Tribune. Retrieved 1 August 2018.
  22. ↑ "Major General Asif Ghafoor's Tweet". Twitter.com. Retrieved 1 August 2018.
  23. ↑ "Pakistani pilots pull off daring rescue". dreamwanderlust.com. 6 August 2018.
  24. ↑ Livingstone, Tom (2019). "Latok I: The Second Ascent". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  25. ↑ "Latok I keeps on surprising this summer; climbed after 1979". dreamwanderlust.com. 23 August 2018.
  26. ↑ "NEWS: Piolets d'Or 2019 - Ascents of Latok I, Lunag Ri and Lupghar Sar West Honoured". www.ukclimbing.com. 2019-08-01. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  27. 1 2 Neate, Jill (1989). High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks. Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
  28. ↑ Nunn, Paul (1979). "Latok II Attempt". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  29. ↑ Nunn, Paul (1978). "Latok II Tragedy". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  30. ↑ Huber, Alexander; Huber, Thomas (1998). "The West Face of Latok II". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club: 34–43. Retrieved 2025-01-05.
  31. ↑ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Mustagh, Latok V, First Ascent; Latok II, South Ridge, First Alpine-Style Ascent". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  32. ↑ "Latok II w stylu alpejskim" (in Polish). Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  33. ↑ "AAC Publications - Latok II, Northwest Ridge, First Integral Ascent and Tragedy". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  34. ↑ "Desperate Rescue Underway on Latok II". Adventure. 2009-08-13. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  35. ↑ "Climbing's Latest Losses: An Aborted Rescue, A Fatal Fall, and the Passing of a Legend". Adventure. 2009-08-17. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  36. ↑ "Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  37. ↑ "The HJ/36/35 EXPEDITIONS 1976-1979". The HJ/36/35 EXPEDITIONS 1976-1979. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  38. ↑ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Latok III". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  39. ↑ Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3
  40. ↑ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Latok III, West Face, Attempt". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  41. ↑ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Latok III, West Face, Attempt and Tragedy". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  42. ↑ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Mustagh, Latok III, Third Ascent". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  43. ↑ Malnuit, Roch (2007-11-09). "TRIP REPORT: LATOK III SEES SECOND ALPINE-STYLE ASCENT". Alpinist. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  44. ↑ "Russians Climb West Face of Latok III". Climbing. 2011-06-28. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  45. ↑ sperkins-pom (2011-06-28). "First Ascent of Latok III West Face". Outside Online. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  46. ↑ "AAC Publications - Latok III (6,949m), West Face". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  47. 1 2 Annapurna, Kris (2021-09-10). "The Wabi-Sabi of Latok IV » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  48. ↑ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Latok IV". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  49. ↑ "Latok IV, New Route to Just Below Northwest Summit". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 2010. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  50. ↑ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh, Latok V (6,190m), Attempt". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  51. ↑ "APakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Mustagh, Latok V, First Ascent; Latok II, South Ridge, First Alpine-Style Ascent". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  52. ↑ Swenson, Steve (April 1, 2017). Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict. Mountaineers Books. ISBN 9781594859748.
  53. 1 2 "Biacherahi North Tower (5,880 meters)". Retrieved 30 September 2026.
  54. ↑ "Climbing in Biafo Area". Retrieved 30 September 2026.
  55. ↑ Schweizer, Paul (2000). "Asia, Pakistan, Rakoposhi-Harimosh Mountains, Panmah Muztagh, Biacherahi Tower, Hanispur South and Indian Face Arête, Ascents". American Alpine Journal. #42 (74). ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 30 September 2026.
  56. ↑ Tanon, Jerome (2018). "Zabardast". MNTNFilm. Retrieved 30 September 2026.
  57. ↑ Millerioux, Hélias (2020). "Biacherahi North Tower, Ski Descent". American Alpine Journal. #62 (94). ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 30 September 2026.
  58. ↑ "Biacherahi Central, Latok, Karakorum, Thomas Huber, Miquel Mas, Víctor Sans". Planet Mountain. Retrieved 30 September 2026.
  59. ↑ "Climbers Reach Summit of Unclimbed Karakoram Peak". Gripped. 26 August 2026. Retrieved 30 September 2026.
  60. ↑ Benavides, Angela (2 September 2026). "Thomas Huber Clears Up Doubts About His Latest First Ascent in Pakistan". Explorers Web. Retrieved 30 September 2026.
  61. ↑ "Kurtyka a Yamanoi open track v Karakorumu". Desnivel (in Spanish). 17 December 2001. Retrieved 30 September 2026.
  62. ↑ "Final Report of Mountaineering Expeditions visited Pakistan during 2009 : Articles : SummitPost". www.summitpost.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
  63. ↑ gripped (2018-07-27). "Climber Dies on Latok I North Ridge as Partner is Stranded". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
  64. ↑ "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Latok III, West Face, Attempt and Tragedy". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-08-15.
  65. ↑ Annapurna, Kris (2021-09-10). "The Wabi-Sabi of Latok IV » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-08-15.