Juanito Oiarzabal

Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal
Juanito Oiarzabal in 2007
Born (1956-03-30) March 30, 1956 (age 70)
Vitoria-Gasteiz, Basque Country, Spain
Occupations
Websitewww.juanitooiarzabal.com

Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga (born 30 March 1956), commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal, is a noted Spanish Basque mountaineer. He has written four books on the subject. He was the 6th man to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits, and the third to do so without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to climb the top three summits twice (Everest + K2 + Kangchenjunga) and the oldest climber to summit Kangchenjunga, at almost 53, until Carlos Fontan did so in 2014, at 75 years old. In 2004, he lost all his toes to frostbite after summiting K2.

In 2009, he announced wanting to become the first person in history to reach a "double 14", summiting each 8000er twice. In April 2010 he reached 24 eight-thousanders, after climbing Annapurna, a world record. In 2011 he climbed Lhotse for a second time, which was his 25th eight-thousander. He is second all-time for 8000er ascents behind Nepali climber Phurba Tashi Sherpa, who has 30.

The Himalayas

His success in the Himalayas is documented, but before starting on those ascents he had already accumulated an extensive resume in Spain. He undertook ascents on all the Spanish mountain masses, including technically demanding paths, and also several first ascents. He has extensive experience in climbing the Alps, undertaking climbs for the technical challenges they presented. In addition to his climbs in the Alps, he has climbed in North America, South America, and Africa. To date, he has participated in 35 Himalayan expeditions over a period of 23 years.

Mountaineering curriculum

Alaska

  • 1984 – Denali ( known also as McKinley) (6,194 m or 20,322 ft) – West Buttress Route.

Argentina

  • 1983 – Aconcagua (6,957 m or 22,825 ft) – 5th world winter ascent (he has accredited 16 ascents to the Aconcagua, as a "guide").

Kenya

Nepal

  • 1982 – Kangchuntse (Makalu II) (7,640 m or 25,070 ft). Altitude reached: 7,200 m (23,600 ft).
  • 1988 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). North side. Altitude reached: 8,000 m (26,000 ft).
  • 1989 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). West Pillar. Altitude reached: 8,350 m (27,400 ft).
  • 1990 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). Southwest side. Altitude reached: 8,300 m (27,200 ft).
  • 1991 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). North side. Altitude reached: 8,400 m (27,600 ft).
  • 1993 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). South-Southeast Route - crest. Summit.
  • 1995 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). Normal route. Summit.
  • 1995 – Lhotse (8,516 m or 27,940 ft). Normal Route. Summit.
  • 1996 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). North side. British route. Summit.
  • 1997 – Manaslu (8,163 m or 26,781 ft). Normal route. Summit.
  • 1998 – Dhaulagiri (8,167 m or 26,795 ft). Normal route. Summit.
  • 1999 – Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 ft). German route. Summit.
  • 2002 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). West pillar. Altitude reached: 7,600 m (24,900 ft).
  • 2004 – Ama Dablam (6,856 m or 22,493 ft). Southwestern sharp edge. Summit.
  • 2008 – Makalu (8,465 m or 27,772 ft). Normal route. Summit.
  • 2009 – Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 ft). Normal route. Summit.
  • 2010 – Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 ft). Summit (helicopter used on descent, expedition death of Tolo Calafat).
  • 2011 – Lhotse (8,516 m or 27,940 ft). Summit.
  • 2011 – Manaslu (8,163 m or 26,781 ft). Normal route. Summit.

Pakistan

  • 1987 – Gasherbrum II (8,035 m or 26,362 ft). Summit.
  • 1987 – Hidden Peak (8,068 m or 26,470 ft). Messner route. Altitude reached: 6,800 m (22,300 ft).
  • 1992 – Nanga Parbat (8,125 m or 26,657 ft). Kinshofer route. Summit.
  • 1994 – K2 - Chogori (8,611 m or 28,251 ft). Tomo Cesen route (1st integral). Summit.
  • 1995 – Broad Peak (8,047 m or 26,401 ft). Normal route. Summit.
  • 1997 – Hidden Peak (8,068 m or 26,470 ft). Japanese Corridor. Summit.
  • 2003 – Broad Peak (8,047 m or 26,401 ft). Winter. Altitude reached: 6,900 m (22,600 ft).
  • 2003 – Gasherbrum II (8,035 m or 26,362 ft). Normal route. Summit.
  • 2003 – Hidden Peak (8,068 m or 26,470 ft). Japanese Corridor. Summit.
  • 2004 – K2 - Chogori (8,611 m or 28,251 ft). Summit.

China

  • 1985 – Cho-Oyu (8,201 m or 26,906 ft). Normal route. Summit.
  • 1998 – Shisha Pangma (8,046 m or 26,398 ft). Southwest side. British route. Summit.
  • 2000 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). North side. Altitude reached: 8,700 m (28,500 ft) (without O2).
  • 2001 – Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 ft). North side. Summit (without O2).
  • 2002 – Cho-Oyu (8,201 m or 26,906 ft). Normal route. Summit.
  • 2003 – Cho-Oyu (8,201 m or 26,906 ft). Normal route. Summit (23 September).
  • 2003 – Cho-Oyu (8,201 m or 26,906 ft). Normal route. Summit (5 October).

China (autonomous region of Xinjiang)

  • 2000 – Taklamakan 800 km (500 mi) desert crossing, (desert, within the Gobi desert), only with the help of camels.

Greenland

  • 2000 – Crossing between the localities of Narsasoak and Kangarlosoak (650 km or 400 mi) on a sleigh, pulled by a kite.

Russia

  • 2001 – Mount Elbrus (5,642 m or 18,510 ft) Normal route. Winter. The highest European summit.

Awards and distinctions

Books

Juanito Oiarzabal has published four books:

Audiovisual productions

References