Puscanturpa

Puscanturpa
Puscanturpa Norte
Highest point
Elevation5,652 m (18,543 ft)
Coordinates10°22′02″S 76°51′51″W / 10.36722°S 76.86417°W / -10.36722; -76.86417
Naming
Language of name
Quechua
Geography
Puscanturpa is located in Peru
Puscanturpa
Puscanturpa
Location within Peru
LocationPeru, Huánuco Region, Lima Region
Parent rangeAndes, Huayhuash
Climbing
First ascent1954, Manfred Bachmann, Karl Lugmayer [de], Siegfried Aeberli and Waldemar Gruber

Puscanturpa (possibly from Quechua puchka, puska spindle, -n a suffix, t'urpu pointed, sharp,) is a mountain group in the south of the Huayhuash mountain range in the Andes of Peru. It is located in the Huánuco Region, Lauricocha Province, Jesús District, and in the Lima Region, Cajatambo Province, Cajatambo District. Puscanturpa lies northwest of the lake and the mountain named Suerococha and northeast of Cuyoc.

The two highest summits in the group are the pyramidal Puscanturpa Norte 5,652 m (18,543 ft) and Puscanturpa Sur 5,500 m (18,000 ft). Other tops are Puscanturpa Central 5,442 m (17,854 ft) and the rock-spire of Puscanturpa Este 5,410 m (17,750 ft).

Climbing History

Puscanturpa Norte: The first recorded ascent of Puscanturpa Norte, the highest point in the group, was made in 1954 by Manfred Bachmann, Karl Lugmayer [de], Siegfried Aeberli and Waldemar Gruber, members of an Austrian group led by Hans Kinzl.

Puscanturpa Sur: Aeberli and Wastl Mariner [de] reached the summit ridge of Puscanturpa Sur during the Austrian expedition in 1954 but they were avalanched from the summit arete.(p179) It was 1964 when a Swiss climber, Julius Hensler, made the first ascent with the Peruvian Pedro Baltazar; they also made the second ascent of Puscanturpa Central.

Puscanturpa Este: The most spectacular peak in the group is the rock-spire of Puscanturpa Este. The first recorded ascent of Puscanturpa Este was made in 1986 via the 450m north-west ridge by three members of British expedition led by John Nixon. The ridge had previously been attempted by Germans.

The Slovenian team of Pavle Kozjek and Grega Kresel made an ascent of the more technical east face of Puscanturpa Este in 2007.

Yasushi Yamanoi and Masaru Noda made the first ascent of the south-east face of Puscanturpa Este in 2013.

References

  1. ↑ escale.minedu.gob.pe UGEL map of the Cajatambo Province (Lima Region)]
  2. ↑ Teofilo Laime Ajacopa (2007). Diccionario Bilingüe: Iskay simipi yuyayk’anch: Quechua – Castellano / Castellano – Quechua (PDF). La Paz, Bolivia: futatraw.ourproject.org.
  3. 1 2 Beaud, Ph. (1988). The Peruvian Andes. Cordillera Blanca Cordillera Huayhuash 100 Climbs 40 Treks. Cloudcap Press. pp. 270–271. ISBN 9780904405743.
  4. 1 2 3 Nixon, John. "The British Andean Climbing Expedition 1986" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #92 (336): 67-72. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 2 October 2026.
  5. ↑ Carter, H. Adams (1955). "South America, Peru, Andes". American Alpine Journal. #9 (29): 173–174. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 9 October 2026.
  6. ↑ Hans Kinzl (1955). "Neues aus der Huayhuash-Kordillere (Peru)" (PDF). Jahrbuch des Österreichischen Alpenvereins (in German). 80: 123–131. Retrieved 9 October 2026.
  7. 1 2 Klier, Heinrich (1955). "Andes Expedition of the Austrian Alpine Club, 1954: Cordillera Huayhuash". In Barnes, Malcom (ed.). Mountain World 1955 (PDF). George Allen and Unwin Ltd. pp. 169–183. Retrieved 9 October 2026.
  8. ↑ Arnao, César Morales (1964). "South America, Peru, Puscanturpa Group, Cordillera Huayhuash". American Alpine Journal. #14 (38): 218. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 9 October 2026.
  9. 1 2 3 Griffin, Lindsay (10 August 2013). "Hard technical ascents in the Cordillera Huayhuash". The BMC. Archived from the original on 7 December 2022.
  10. ↑ Griffin, Lindsay; Popier, Rodolphe; Hagiwara, Hiroshi. "2021 - Yasushi Yamanoi". Mammut. Retrieved 28 September 2026.