Ryo Omasa

Ryo Omasa
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (2002-06-26) June 26, 2002 (age 24)
Ehime, Japan
EducationMatsuyama University
Height167 cm (5 ft 6 in)
Climbing career
Competition speed climbing
Medal record
Men's competition climbing
Representing  Japan
World Cup (Overall)
Third place2025Speed
World Cup (Event)
Gold medal – first placeChongqing 2026Speed
Silver medal – second placeGuiyang 2025Speed
Silver medal – second placeBali 2025Speed
Bronze medal – third placeChamonix 2026Speed
Bronze medal – third placeKraków 2025Speed
Bronze medal – third placeWujiang 2023Speed
Bronze medal – third placeVillars 2023Speed

Ryo Omasa (大政 涼 Omasa Ryo; born June 26, 2002) is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing.

Career

Omasa collected his first IFSC World Cup medal, winning bronze at the 2023 Villars World Cup. In September 2023, he won another bronze medal at the Wujiang World Cup.

In 2025, Omasa won his first silver medal at the Bali World Cup and a bronze medal at the Kraków World Cup.

In 2026, Omasa won this fourth bronze medal in Chamonix, after beating Zhao Yicheng in the semifinal with a PB of 4.701. Omasa won his first World Climbing Series in Chongqing, becoming the first Japanese climber to win in the Speed event.

Achievements

Asian Youth Championships

Lead Youth A

Year Venue Result
2018 Chongqing, China 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Bronze

IFSC Climbing World Cup

Men's speed

Year Venue Opponent Time (s) Result
2026 Chamonix, France China Zhao Yicheng 4.701–4.704 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Bronze
2025 Guiyang, China China Chu Shouhong 4.79–4.99 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Silver
2025 Bali, Indonesia United States Samuel Watson fs–4.64 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Silver
2025 Kraków, Poland United States Zach Hammer 5.49-fall 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Bronze
2023 Wujiang, China South Korea Euncheol Shin 5.11-5.16 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Bronze
2023 Villars, Switzerland United States Samuel Watson 5.30-fall 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Bronze

Rankings

World Cup

Discipline 2022 2023 2024 2025
Speed 26 10 10 3

Japan Cup

Discipline 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023 2024 2025
Speed 20 9 11 1 5 9 2

References

  1. ↑ "Ryo Omasa". IFSC. Retrieved 8 July 2025.
  2. ↑ "Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Villars: Natalia Kalucka and Long Jianguo win speed contests". Olympics. Retrieved 8 July 2025.
  3. ↑ "Japan and China dominate IFSC World Cup Lead and Speed - Wujiang 2023". UKClimbing. Retrieved 8 July 2025.
  4. ↑ "Bali Did Not Disappoint: World Cup Review & Analysis". Inside Climbing. Retrieved 8 July 2025.
  5. ↑ "大政涼が3位 今季2個目のメダル獲得【スピードW杯2025 第4戦クラクフ大会】". CLIMBERS (in Japanese). Retrieved July 4, 2025.
  6. ↑ "Golden Double Delight for Indonesian Speed Team". World Climbing. Retrieved 20 September 2026.
  7. ↑ "大政涼が悲願の金メダル スピードで日本人史上初の頂点【ワールドクライミングシリーズ2026 スピード第6戦】|CLIMBERS". climbers-web.jp (in Japanese). Retrieved September 20, 2026.
  8. ↑ "Asian Youth Championships 2018". IFSC. 8 July 2025.
  9. ↑ "World Climbing Series Chamonix 2026". IFSC. 11 July 2026.
  10. ↑ "IFSC World Cup Guiyang 2025". IFSC. 8 July 2025.
  11. ↑ "IFSC World Cup Bali 2025". IFSC. 8 July 2025.
  12. ↑ "IFSC World Cup Krakow 2025". IFSC. 8 July 2025.
  13. ↑ "IFSC World Cup Wujiang 2023". IFSC. 8 July 2025.
  14. ↑ "IFSC World Cup Villars 2023". IFSC. 8 July 2025.