| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | June 26, 2002 Ehime, Japan | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Education | Matsuyama University | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 167 cm (5 ft 6 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Competition speed climbing | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Ryo Omasa (大政 涼 Omasa Ryo; born June 26, 2002) is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing.
Omasa collected his first IFSC World Cup medal, winning bronze at the 2023 Villars World Cup. In September 2023, he won another bronze medal at the Wujiang World Cup.
In 2025, Omasa won his first silver medal at the Bali World Cup and a bronze medal at the Kraków World Cup.
In 2026, Omasa won this fourth bronze medal in Chamonix, after beating Zhao Yicheng in the semifinal with a PB of 4.701. Omasa won his first World Climbing Series in Chongqing, becoming the first Japanese climber to win in the Speed event.
Lead Youth A
| Year | Venue | Result |
|---|---|---|
| 2018 | Chongqing, China |
Men's speed
| Year | Venue | Opponent | Time (s) | Result |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2026 | Chamonix, France | 4.701–4.704 | ||
| 2025 | Guiyang, China | 4.79–4.99 | ||
| 2025 | Bali, Indonesia | fs–4.64 | ||
| 2025 | Kraków, Poland | 5.49-fall | ||
| 2023 | Wujiang, China | 5.11-5.16 | ||
| 2023 | Villars, Switzerland | 5.30-fall |
| Discipline | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Speed | 26 | 10 | 10 | 3 |
| Discipline | 2019 | 2020 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 | 2025 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Speed | 20 | 9 | 11 | 1 | 5 | 9 | 2 |